Two things made this trip very special! First, a very old and dear friend of mine, who now lives in Amsterdam, met me there. Second, I had planned to attend a class at Le Cordon Bleu!
Craig and I had gone to high school together and best we could recall it's been about fifteen years since we have seen each other. Both of our lives have taken twists and turns we had not planned and still I believe we are both better off for having lived through some challenging life experiences. Within hours of reconnecting it was as if I had seen him only yesterday! He had lived in Paris for many years and so I had my own personal tour guide!
We rented this lovely apartment near the Effel Tower in the 15 arrondissment ~ Vaugriard. Our little place was at the Dupleix stop on line 6 of the Paris Metro. Apartment renting is absolutely the way to go! When I go again, AND I WILL GO AGAIN, I'll find a similar spot. The biggest "challenge" (and it really was more funny than anything) was the elevator. Old building, old & little lift ... many things in Paris are old and little (duh!)! One of those cage types that you have to open the exterior door and then the inside swinging doors of the compartment. The thing claims to hold "3 Personnes". We decided that it clearly meant only French Personnes as we two large Americans were all that was squeezing into that thing! My luggage had to go up and come down all alone as I could not even fit with it!
I am not too familiar with Flat Stanley but it is a series of adventures about an all flat boy. The book was written in 1964 and I am rather amazed that I don't recall reading any of them! He goes to space, becomes invisible and befriends a magic lamp. Anyway... Flat Stanley Cup went to Paris with us! You see, the Chicago Blackhawks had WON the Stanley Cup. The Chicago Tribune created a cut-out available on line and encouraged fans to take Flat Stanley for adventures! He went with us on our walks through Paris and even made the newspaper! http://www.chicagotribune.com/sports/hockey/blackhawks/chi-flat-stanley-cup-ugcpg,0,6237948.ugcphotogallery . It's a similar concept to the George Clooney movie "Up in the Air" where he takes the cut out of his sister & soon-to-be brother in law on his travels for photo ops. Rather a fun and funny concept!
We strolled in the Tuilleries, walked along the Seine, looked at the beautiful people on the Champs Elysees and ended up near the Arc de Triomphe. Walked the streets in St Germain-des-pres and peeked into the shops along the way. Enjoyed a dinner of steak and pommes frites at one of Craig's favorite little spots. Went to La Madeleine on Rue Royale and around the old Paris Opera House. We ate lunch in the old stable area of the palace (now le Louvre) and enjoyed the garden areas. Paid our respects to Jim Morrison of the Doors, Edith Piaf & Chopin at Pere-Lachaise cemetery. Tons of amazing history in this peaceful space surrounded by the bustle of Paris. The Effel Tower was near our apartment so having a look at that was a daily pleasure! The dancing lights on the hour at night is expecially exciting!
I have been to Paris before, twice actually, but never for more than 3 days at a time. So, each time I had missed the Musee d'Orsay... NOT this time! And let me just say that I was not disappointed, it houses some of the most beautiful and famous Impressionistic Art in all of the world. Monet, Renoir, Degas, Manet... not to mention others such as VanGogh, Cezanne, Gauguin, Matisse and of course works from Toulouse-Lautrec. The beauty and wonder of these creations take your breath away. I was awe struck the entire visit to this lovely old neoclassical building which used to be Gare d'Orsay (train-station). The builders of the city certainly created large and beautiful monuments, castles & churches throughout the city proper. I wonder how much the people that live in Paris take the beauty and splendor of it for granted? I am sure they must as we all take the things in our back yard for granted.
On Sunday morning in the 15th arrondissment there is a market beneath the elevated train. We left early for our adventures that morning so that we were sure to not miss anything! Fournisseures de fleur (flower vendors), fromage fournisseurs (cheese vendors) , les boulangeries (bakeries) and fournisseurs de viande et de poisson (vendors for meat & fish) were everywhere! You'll see when you view my photos that there were pigs feet, tripe, some of the biggest beef cuts I have ever seen & plenty of shell fish available. This is the place were everyone came to meet and mingle on a clear and bright sunny Sunday to purchase delicious treasures for the week. If the Parisian wants to shop at a market like this every day of the week, they can! These markets travel from arrondissment (neighborhood) to arrondissment daily. Just learn the schedule and walk or grab the train to the next available one. It is an amazing way to shop!
I felt very honored to walk the halls of Le Cordon Bleu Paris where Julia Child had studied. The facility is amazing and the experience was one I won't soon forget. During my two day class on La Boulangerie Traditionelle I baked 13 different types of bread formed in to 16 different shapes! We had plenty to eat and I do believe that man could live on bread alone if they were eating what I prepared those two days! Here was the breakdown...
- Baguettes
- Batards
- Pain de campagne Rustique ~ Rustic country-style bread
- Pain Tradition ~ Tradition bread
- Brioche
- Croissants
- Pain de mie aux epinards ~ Spinach sandwich bread
- Pain complet ~ Wholewheat bread
- Baguette viennoise ~ Milk bread baguette
- Fougasse
- Onion Bread
- Quing Aman ~ a sweet version of croissants, dusting with sugar as you roll the butter rather than flour
- Pain de champagne sur levain naturel ~ Country style bread using a natural leaven
I caused a bit of a stir on the train with all this wonderfully smelling warm bread! Upon my return to the apartment a photo shoot was set up and the fruits of my labor photographed and then devoured. You see Craig is a professional photographer and everything must be recorded. It's a blessing that I didn't have to "afford" his daily rate and he would work for food!
For a few fleeting moments while in Le Cordon Bleu Paris facility I was really miffed at myself for not having the hupsa (sp?) to have made the French connection for my studies this past year. I was then reminded of the reality of what that would have been like during the class when the instructor spoke only French! We did have a translator to relay the points of the lecture & demonstration but I am certain some things were lost in the exchange. Oh the night-mare I am sure I would have encountered trying to learn the language as well as the technique's!
On Tuesday, June 15th, I boarded Delta flight 29 to return to the States. It was with slow & heavy steps and bittersweet emotions that I walked down the jet bridge for the 10 hour flight to Atlanta. I had been somewhat ready to leave Italy the week before, but Paris... there was still so much to see and I felt really comfortable in the City of Lights. I suddenly realized that with this departure REAL life was about to set in....
My flight to Italy in April had been quite comfortable. The bulk-head isle seat, plenty of room to stretch out and a very nice young lady & sleeping infant next to me. The child was an angel! I should have known that the trip home would not be as peaceful. My assigned seat was the row behind the bulk-head, which was fine as I still had the isle and plenty of leg room. The window seat next to me was empty and I was crossing my fingers, toes & what ever else I might maneuver in hopes that it would remain so. Three minutes before the doors closed a mom and three little children rushed on to the plane in a furry. I am sure you can see where this is going... In the isle seat across from me there was a young girl (traveling alone with a Delta escort). The bulk-head row (two seats) in front of me ... empty. It seems that this mother and three children were in that row and the window seat next to me. One of her three was under the age of two and therefore didn't require a seat as he was to be held by her the entire time. The lead flight attendant approached and asked if the young girl would mind moving to the window seat in that bulk-head row and if I would mind moving up to the isle seat. He offered to buy me a cocktail (only beer and wine are free) if I would do so. This way the family would have the three seats across. I agreed and relocated and settled in. The young girl, traveling alone, was heading to Atlanta on an exchange program. She was 12 and would be in the States for 6 weeks. She was very sweet. I think we were in the air all of about 20 minutes when the kicking from the seats behind us started. She turned to me with wide eyes and sort of grimaced. While hoped that was just a fluke I secretly knew we were in for a very long 10 hours!
After the kicking happened 3-4 times I very nicely asked the mom if she could please have her child stop kicking the seats (and pulling on the tray tables!)? My free cocktail came, then another & soon wine with dinner. I was hoping to have just a little nap because I didn't want to be totally strung out upon my arrival. My "Favorite Lawyer" was planning to fetch me at the airport at 8PM Atlanta time and I wanted to be awake and alert and try to get back to EST timezone as quickly as possible. About 4 1/5 hours into the flight I put in my ear plugs, put on my eye-nap gear and snuggled in for some shut eye (please note... I did not even lay my chair back). And then it happens, just as I doze off... furious kicking from behind and it continues for several minutes off and on. My request was polite, "please try to get him from kicking. I know it's a long flight, blah blah blah".... my next one was "if you don't stop them from kicking I will". Now what I would have done I am not 100%... not like I could have spanked a child that was not mine even if I had wanted to! Needless to say my ability to relax and sleep was shot. For the remainder of the flight I attempted to read, watch another movie & write in my journal. I am sure, even though I don't have any, that traveling with children is not easy. But over my many years of traveling for work and pleasure I have encountered families with children who are well behaved, follow instruction and mind their parents. Too bad for me & my seat companion we didn't have one of those families!
My flight landed in the middle of a rain & thunderstorm. My bags were delayed in customs and my "Favorite Lawyer" had vehicular trouble. A cab ride to my apartment was not my idea of the perfect welcome but .... what's a girl to do? My little nest was clean & comfortable and wrapped me with the warmth of familiar things. My bed felt perfect and while I didn't sleep much at all there really is "no place like home".
Pain de mie aux epinards ~ Spinach sandwich bread
Yield 2 loaves 450 grams each
350 degrees for 20-25 minutes
- 500 grams Bread Flour
- 300 grams Spinach (no need to chop)
- 10 grams Kosher salt
- 20 grams sugar
- 20 grams fresh yeast
- 63 grams unsalted butter
Add first five ingredients to mixer fit with a dough hook. Mix until a ball forms and pulls away from the sides. If it's too dry add a drop or so of water. Add butter and mix until the ball forms again and pulls away from the sides of the bowl.
Form a ball and let it rest for 15-30 minutes
Punch down. Measure out two loaves at 450 grams each. Roll inside out to form a smooth exterior to the bread. Spray two loaf pans with cooking spray and place the loaves inside the pan. Let the dough rest and rise in a warm place for 40-45 minutes.
Wash the bread with an egg wash to create a shiny crust
Bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes until golden brown.
Slice & enjoy!!
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